Meet our new LT1 Formula project car and see how to gain 11 hp and nearly 12 ft-lbs doing basic maintenance
To those of you who feel GMHTP may not have been giving LT1s enough love lately, rest assured there is plenty more tech to come. As of late, the Gen II seems to be graduating from the neglected middle child to the red-headed stepchild of late model GM EFIs. Many see LT1s as inefficient, primitive motors with a power potential that pales in comparison to LS1s. However, in recent years it has become more and more affordable to pick up a 1993 to 1997 F-body. And with inspiration from guys like Rick Intrau of HPE and Joe Overton of Lethal EFI Performance — who have stuck by their iron-block LT1s in the age of aluminum — I, too, decided to set upon the path of burnt plug wires, failed Optisparks, and bloody knuckles for the sake of showing a few LS1s some manners.
In late 2005, your author happened upon a screaming deal on a 1994 Formula found on the internet. Located in Paterson, N.J., just a few miles from GMHTP headquarters in Rochelle Park, the Teal Metallic Firebird looked as if it recently had been in some sort of accident, which the owner took as an opportunity to sell the car rather than fix the damage. The car would require a new hood, right front headlight bucket, front bumper cover supports, light bodywork, and some new paint. Despite the damage the car had a lot of pluses including a hardtop, cloth seats, good interior condition, good mechanical condition, clean history, under 100,000 miles, and a negotiated price of $2,500.
For better or worse, the Formula also came with a number of other goodies. A K & N cold air kit, Kenny Brown strut tower brace, and an airfoil were also on the car at the time of purchase. For the sake of science, we decided to put the Formula back to stock in order to provide accurate baseline testing. Fbody Motorsports was happy to contribute a stock airbox to our cause, as the company keeps a stockpile of not only new hi-pro parts for late model GM EFIs, but used stock parts as well. In fact, if you are looking for a hood, hatch, fender or bumper cover off any ‘82-02 F-body, they can accommodate you. While we were tempted to source them for a new hood as well, bigger (or should I say lighter) plans were in store for the front-end restoration.
As for the options list, she wasn’t quite a stripper, but you wouldn’t take her home to meet your mother either. A few options we would have preferred include 3.23 (not to mention 3.42) gears, a 150-mph speedometer, and a six-speed. Instead 2.73s, a 110-mph speedo, and a 4L60E adorned the Formula — but for that kind of price, it’s hard to complain. A few creature comforts like power windows, power locks, and the eight-speaker Monsoon sound system came on the car as well, which has made driving in North Jersey a little more tolerable.
Upon close inspection, it appeared the Bridgestone tires had never been rotated, so we could only speculate as to what other maintenance had been neglected. A call was put into Royal Purple for its high performance synthetic Automatic Transmission fluid, Max-Gear differential fluid, Purple Ice coolant additive, and 5W30 motor oil. Both the motor oil and the gear oil operate on similar principles; high film strength and resistance to oxidation are crucial, which is why Royal Purple created its own additive — Synerlec. The high film strength of this additive, Royal Purple says, reduces friction for increased power and fuel mileage due to a reduction in parasitic loss, which also drops engine operating temperatures. Another side effect is the enhanced ring seal, and in reducing blow-by it will also have a positive effect on both power and emissions. Max-Gear oil uses a modified version of Synerlec called Synslide to achieve similar goals with the extreme pressure additive for right-angle gear applications. It exceeds both GL-4 and GL-5 requirements, as a true testament of both its high film strength and non-corrosive nature. Max ATF on the contrary, provides a very high viscosity to prevent clutch slippage, and is designed for consistant performance throughout a broad temperature range. Purple Ice coolant additive, as you may know from the Cooling System Buyer’s Guide (July 2006), reduces the surface tension of water (or the water / antifreeze mix) to increase the heat transfer rate. LT1s tend to be very sensitive to heat and quickly become heat soaked, so reducing operating temperatures is crucial to optimal performance. It will also prevent electrolysis and corrosion — two nice features for older cars with stock radiators.
While changing the fluids it is also a good idea to do some house cleaning, so Justice Brothers provided radiator cleaner, intake valve cleaner, fuel injection system cleaner, and pressurized air intake system cleaner as well as a host of other products we plan to use throughout this project. Some of the power gains in this test will be achieved through the use of the intake valve and fuel injector cleaner. Deposits and additives in the gasoline have been gumming up the injector orifice and fuel rails not to mention the intake valves. Reducing or eliminating these restrictions can even noticeably increase fuel mileage. The pressurized can of air intake cleaner is designed to clean out the intake manifold since it is also exposed to fuel, especially during reversion (when the intake valve closes and the injector is still spraying). The radiator cleaner will be the final element to help start this project with a clean slate. Once the old coolant mix is drained and the radiator is flushed, fresh coolant will be added in preparation for the Purple Ice additive. A trip to the local autoparts store also yielded a new PCV valve, fuel filter, and air filter. Between the synthetic fluids and the cleaner running engine, a few extra horsepower and some added longevity to the aging LT1 should be achieved.
To test these products, we hooked up a Full Throttle Speed & Performance Scanmaster to the OBD-I computer and installed a wideband O2 sensor connected to an Innovate Motorsports LM-1. In using the Scanmaster we could keep a close eye on the knock retard and spark advance, as well as checking for any trouble codes. Meanwhile, the Innovate LM-1 would help track the air / fuel ratio using a hyper-accurate Bosch wideband O2 sensor. Crazy Horse Racing in South Amboy, N.J., was happy to install both of these products in addition to refreshing our new project car’s rotating parts and documenting the results on its in-house Dynojet just in time to take it to the track for its maiden voyage.
This is to be the first of many passes down the old 1320 for our LT1 project car as we take a “no compromise” approach to building the ultimate 11-second DOT legal street machine. The term “street car” gets thrown around a lot, as if possessing most of the interior and not having solid motor mounts were the only qualifying factors. In reality, many of these so-called street cars overheat, stall in traffic, and spin the tires in every gear on a street launch. So this project is designed to succeed where others have failed — in creating a pure street car that runs solid 11s. As a daily driver and frequent highway cruiser — gas mileage, reliability, ride quality, street traction, comfort and overall drivability will be kept at a premium. In addition, compliance with New Jersey emissions laws will be yet another hurdle to overcome in achieving the necessary horsepower demands. Stay tuned because it’s going to be fun...
Using a handful of great products from Royal Purple and Justice Brothers, we hope to ascertain the effects of proper vehicle maintenance and the use of synthetic lubricants on horsepower and torque. The use of synthetic lubricants is said to greatly reduce friction, thereby increasing efficiency and power. More over, the use of Royal Purple motor oil and gear oil should help achieve some longevity and durability from our aging project car, thanks to its high film strength and resistance to oxidation. Please note that while Max ATF is pictured, and provided by Royal Purple, it was deemed imprudent to change the tranny fluid due to its age and a vibration felt at idle (while in Drive with foot on brake). When we pulled up to Crazy Horse to put the Formula on the dyno and swap the fluids, proprietor Chris Winter and technician Glen Knell both recommended against changing the tranny fluid. Later when I consulted transmission expert Eric Schertz at Dynotech, he concurred, as the fresh fluid could act as a detergent and wash away any decayed or slipping clutches — causing further harm. So I guess we will just have to save the ATF for the tranny rebuild. As for the rest of the fluids, we planned to add some fresh coolant and mix in Purple Ice additive to reduce surface tension — thereby reducing operating temperatures. Meanwhile, a full complement of Justice Brothers products would be used to clean house. Intake Valve and Fuel Injection Cleaner would need to be dumped in the gas tank to free up both power and fuel efficiency as Radiator Cleaner flushes the coolant system in preparation for some fresh coolant, and a pressurized can of Air Intake System Cleaner cleans up any deposits in the intake manifold.
In order to install the wide band O2, a bung had to be welded into the Y-pipe for the O2 sensor. The bung is provided in the kit along with all of the necessary wiring, the module, and cable to connect to a laptop. At the current moment the LM-1 will most likely be confirming the pig rich nature of the stock tune, however, it will become crucial later on with further mods in keeping the LT1 dialed in and monitoring the weak stock fuel pump. Plus the LM-1 will also pick up any changes in the air / fuel ratio with higher flowing intake and exhaust components.
On Crazy Horse’s Dynojet chassis dyno the bone stock Bird made 224.7 hp and 261.8 ft-lbs of torque using the Standard correction factor. This is right on par with most stock 4L60E-equipped LT1s, so there seem to be no surprises thus far and we can only go up from here.
Swapping out the dirty old fuel filter with this AC Delco piece required using 5/8 and 13/16 wrenches. Aggregately, I am sure this is creating some inefficiency and loss of power, not to mention taking away from fuel economy. The Justice Brothers Fuel Injector Cleaner will probably make more of an impact after it is dumped into the fuel tank, followed by swapping out the PCV valve for a fresh unit.
Full Throttle Speed & Style provided us with a Scanmaster (PN 050SCANLT1) to monitor most every function of our LT1 and the PCM including O2 sensor readings, knock, spark advance, MAF, MAP, and trouble codes. There is even an extra wire hookup (PN 050ANALOGIN), so that it can plug into the Innovate LM-1 Air / Fuel Meter. This piece of hardware will be crucial in helping to keep the aging motor alive despite my heavy right foot.
For Firebirds the steering column seems to be a good viewing location — without cutting up the dash that is. Some Velcro works well to secure the box, and the wire is hidden nicely with the steering column.
After a brief Second gear burnout to clean off the tires, I put it in Drive, staged shallow and gave no input to the throttle before letting off the brake. With the 2.73s you can pretty much stomp down as hard and fast as you want without even chirping the tires on a sticky track, which helps to flash the converter. F-bodies equipped with the Transmission Performance button would be wise to use this function, as it was a solid tenth of a second reduction in ET. Without even using any of the tricks of the trade such as icing the intake, pulling the airbox, and unbolting the sway bar or passenger seat, the stock firebird ran a consistent 14.02 at 99 mph. Sixty-foot times were severely limited by the 2.73s, averaging 2.15 to 2.18.
With all of our high-tech gadgets ready to go, it was time to start spinning the rollers again. And wouldn’t you know it: power shot up to 235.8 hp and 273.1 ft-lbs. That’s an 11hp gain, and nearly 12 lb-ft of torque gain, just from switching to synthetic fluids and performing basic maintenance!
In the interest of saving time and isolating the Royal Purple Purple Ice coolant additive for testing, the radiator was drained and flushed using the Justice Brothers Radiator Cleaner. Once flushed out with the motor running, the drain was plugged and fresh coolant was added.
While on the lift, Glen removed the airfoil and K & N FIPK that came on the car — replacing it with a stock piece Fbody Motorsports provided and a new air filter.
The Innovate Motorsports LM-1 Digital Air / Fuel Ratio Meter is a must for any serious racer. It allows for up to six channels of data logging and comes with a USB cable and software to link up to a laptop. Meanwhile, the digital display shows air / fuel and Lambda readings in real time. The portable, handheld LM-1 has a calibration feature, which compensates for temperature, altitude, and sensor condition. A Bosch wideband O2 sensor is also included with the basic kit as is a cigarette lighter power adaptor, 9V battery, 100-ft sensor cable, exhaust bung and plug. Innovate Motorsports also provided us with its LMA-2 RPM Converter, so we can plug in to the tach signal to plot rpm.
The rear differential fluid is one of the most overlooked maintenance items, and many cars go over a hundred thousand miles without it ever being changed. However, for the health of the limited slip differential in your F-body, which is known to be weak, you’d better get on that, champ! I hadn’t heard a peep from the posi in the Formula, but a dose of Royal Purple’s Max-Gear oil should help preserve the stocker through many smoky burnouts before it was time to upgrade. In addition, the slick synthetic fluid should help the ring-and-pinion rotate more freely so as to free up some power. If you are doing this at home, a couple of jack stands, a decent sized wrench with a 13mm socket, RTV gasket maker, and a pump will be needed to complete the task. After the 10 bolts are removed from the diff cover, make sure you scrape off the old sealant and clean the cover before resealing it to the differential.
The square plug on a 3/8-inch drive wrench (where the socket usually plugs in) is sufficient for removing the fill plug on the diff, and while the bottle seems adequately equipped for adding the fluid directly in, the pump is a whole lot easier. Despite Royal Purple’s use of limited slip differential additives, most shops still recommend using a bottle of additive from your local GM dealership. Later I found out why when a noticeable clicking occurred going around turns after a long trip on the highway.
The oil was drained next and replaced with five or six quarts of Royal Purple 5W30, ideal for stock LT1s such as this. A 14mm socket was required to remove the drain plug on the oil pan, meanwhile the old oil filter was removed by hand and replaced by a K & N Performance Gold filter (PN HP-2002).
The Scanmaster plugs into the ALDL port, which is the bottom right connection. The black-and-white wire is the ground, tan is the signal, and the white wire connects to the key-on power fuse located on the side of the dash next to the door jam. Crazy Horse owner Chris Winter hooked everything up using quick-connects, so that the unit could be moved around when its new home was selected.
Next stop was the Englishtown, N.J. Raceway Park for some track testing. We were blessed with cool temperatures in the 40-45 degree range for most of the day, only 32-34 percent humidity and barometric pressure was around 30.0. I liberated the Kenny Brown brace from the strut towers, which was the last non-stock piece on the car, and let the Bird cool while the track was being prepped. After setting the tire pressure to around 34-36 psi, the lug nuts and the fluids were checked, and we were ready to roll.
I had planned to experiment with launch technique a bit more and see if I could sneak the Formula into the 13s, but the Scanmaster had been reading 11.1 degrees of knock. This was a red flag, and I felt it wise to call it a day. Upon further street testing, the knock went as high as 11.6 degrees, however, the Scanmaster was also reading as much as 45 degrees of timing. This would seem to indicate that this PCM had been given an aggressive timing table, but the air / fuel ratio was way rich at 11.3 at WOT on the top end as well. So I sent the OBD-I computer over to Ed Wright at Fastchip, who reflashed the computer with an updated program from GM. Additionally, Ed also looked at the tune that was in the computer, and it was in fact the stock tune. As a result, our Scanmaster readings have remained a bit of a mystery as of the moment. According to Mike Licht of Full Throttle Speed and Ed Wright, these readings could be the result of a bad MAF, MAP or Intake Air Temperature sensor. Or, as LT1 WOT timing readings fluctuate greatly, we could have a high timing tune, and are getting knock from somewhere else. We will investigate this further and let you know.
